Version 2.0 - 31 December 1999


(And Other Nice-to-Know Information Related to GLOCK Handguns)


The following information has been compiled from information posted from time to time on the Glock ListServe Page by Glock handgun owners and others interested in information related to the Glock autopistol. The opinions expressed are those of the Glock enthusiasts themselves. The information contained herein does not necessarily reflect the opinions of Glock, Inc. This document is merely an attempt to pass along the thoughts and opinions among Glocksters who frequent the Glock ListServe Page (a.k.a. ‘Sniper's' Glock Page) with the hope that others will find the content interesting, informative and helpful.





Q. Where may I find a web page related to Glocks?

A. One of the more popular web pages for Glock owners and enthusiasts is The Glock ListServe Page, where one may expect to read between 100 to 250 messages a day relative to Glock handguns and related subjects. To subscribe to the Glock ListServe Page send an e-mail addressed to: and in the body (text) of the message write: subscribe glock <your email address> and you will automatically become a subscriber and the Glock world of other Glocksters will be opened to you.



Q. Where may I obtain a copy of the Glock Armorer's Manual?

A. You must attend the Glock Armorer's Course and become a certified Glock Armorer. However, there are some excellent books available which cover the Glock autopistol in detail, including history, care, and detailed disassembly and maintenance information. Two of these books are: "Glock: The New Wave in Combat Handguns" by Peter Alan Kasler and "Glock's Handguns" by Duncan Long. Available from most on-line book stores and from some mail order retailers. Kasler's book gives detailed assembly and disassembly instructions for all Glocks.




Q. I looked through a Glock Armorer's Manual at a gun show and was surprised to find that it seemed to have virtually nothing in it that isn't on Glockmeister's exceptionally helpful technical info pages. Do others share this impression?

A. Absolutely. The Glockmeister's site is the best general resource for Glock information and Glock products and a visit to is well worth the time for anyone interested in Glocks.




Q. Are there two magazines ... One titled "Glock Auto Pistols" and the other called "Glock Annual"? Are they one and the same?

A. The one titled "Glock Autopistols" and the other titled "Glock Annual" are the same magazine. The issue distributed by Glock, Inc. is called the Glock Annual. The one sold on the news stands is called "Glock Autopistols."





Q. Why is gun safety so important?

A. Because your life may depend upon it!

Wherever you go in the gun world you will continue to see the basic rules of firearm safety.

Reason: It's important ... very important ... that you handle your firearm properly and safely..

So, We repeat:


The Basic Rules of Firearms Safety:

1. Handle all firearms as if they were loaded.

2. Always keep the firearm pointed in a safe direction.

3. Keep your finger out of the gun's trigger guard and off the trigger until you have aligned the gun's sights on a safe target and you have made the decision to fire.

4. Always be certain the your target and the surrounding area are safe before firing.

5. Whenever you handle a firearm, the first thing you should do (while keeping it pointed in a safe direction with your finger outside the trigger guard) is to open the action to determine whether or not the firearm is loaded.

6. Thoroughly read the instruction manual supplied with your firearm(s).

7. Before firing your gun, you should routinely make sure that your firearm is in good working order and that the barrel is clear of dirt and obstructions.

8. Only use ammunition recommended by the firearm manufacturer, and always be certain that the ammunition matches the caliber of your gun.

9. Quality ear and eye protection should always be worn when shooting or observing.

10. Never use firearms while under the influence of drugs or alcohol.

11. All firearms should be stored unloaded and secured in a safe storage case, inaccessible to children and untrained adults.

12. The transportation of firearms is regulated by Federal, State and local laws. Always transport your firearm in a safe, unloaded condition and in accordance with applicable laws.

REMEMBER: Firearms SAFETY depends on YOU.





If you own both a G-19, G-23 and G-32 you should be aware of a potential problem. These guns look identical, but are of different calibers. When on the range with two or more of the aforementioned guns, or at any time these guns are being exposed at the same time, you have to be extra careful and make sure the right mag finds it way to the right gun. You don't want to load 9 mm rounds into a .40 caliber gun and vice versa. Keep it in mind and be safe! This same warning applied to other Glock handguns: the G-17, G-22 and G-31 are look-a-likes BUT are of different calibers, so is the G-20 and G-+21, or the G-26, G-27, and G-33, or the G-17L, G-24, G24C, or the G-34 and G-35, as is the G-29 and G-30. The point is: THINK! - Use caution when handling more than one model of Glock and be aware of the difference in calibers of ammo. It may save you a KaBOOM!




Q. What will be the effects if I train on the range occasionally without ear protection?

A. Hearing loss is cumulative. "Stuff don't grow back." If you shoot with no "ears" you WILL damage your hearing; sometimes a lot, sometimes just a little. BUT IT IS CUMULATIVE! So, when on the shooting range, ALWAYS WEAR EAR PROTECTION!!!






Q. I have a buyer for one of my guns, but he lives in NY and I live in Oregon. What is the legal way to handle this transaction? Can I ship it directly to him?

A. Have the buyer locate an FFL dealer on his end and have him forward a "signed" copy of his dealer's FFL to your FFL dealer. Your dealer then forwards the firearm (and a copy of his FFL) to the buyers FFL dealer. In this way the FFL's perform all the paperwork and NICS checks. All handgun transactions MUST go FFL to FFL.




A. The writer who pointed out that federal law prohibits only manufacturing and selling (not possessing and selling) "armor piercing ammunition," is correct.

  Addressing some of the points made by others commenting on this subject:

  1. SS109 is not "armor piercing ammunition." "Armor piercing ammunition" is defined in federal law [18 U.S.C. 921(17)(B)] as "a projectile or projectile core which may be used in a handgun and which is constructed" of various metals harder than lead, or "a full jacketed projectile larger than .22 caliber designed and intended for use in a handgun and whose jacket has a weight of more than 25 percent of the total weight of the projectile." SS109 bullets have a steel tip under the jacket, but they have a lead core.

  2. 7.62x39 iron core ammo was declared "AP" when someone put together an "AR-15" type handgun in that caliber. At that point, the projectile fit the language about "may be used in a handgun" and that was all she wrote.

  3. M855 (and SS109, if you want to get technical) and M2 AP are Specifically excluded from the ATF's definition of armor piercing ammunition. I don't have a cite handy, maybe someone else on the list has it? I don't know why M2 AP is excluded, but if you want the real deal in terms of armor piercing 5.56 NATO, you want M995, not M855 or SS109. M855/SS109 only has a partial steel core while M995 has a tungsten core. Read all about it at:






Q. Since the glock has no external safety, should I carry it with one up the pike (in the chamber)?

A. Yes, if you have trained properly trained for it. A lot of those who routinely carry guns as a part of their everyday professional life feel that a gun without a round in the chamber is a paperweight!



Q. Being that Glock has no safety, should I carry it with one round in the chamber?

A. While the Glock pistol does not have a traditional safety, it does have a trigger safety, a firing pin safety, and a drop safety. IMHO, a gun without a round in the chamber is a paperweight! But, remember Firearm Safety rule #3: Keep your finger out of the gun's trigger guard and off the trigger until you have aligned the gun's sights on a safe target and you have made the decision to fire.




Q. Do most people shoot handguns with one or both eyes open? I see a lot of pictures with the shooters keeping both eyes open. I cannot seem to focus properly on the front sight unless I shut one eye. I have made some progress by turning my head slightly so that my big nose blocks one eye (while open.) This seems to clear up the image of the front sight that is only visible with one eye at that time. What do you guys/gals do? Why?

A. #1. Shooting with both eyes open is desirable, because it allows for better equilibrium and, therefore, better balance. Several years back, the cornea of my dominant (right) eye was damaged and I have since been forced to make my left eye dominant, when shooting. It's tough to shoot with both eyes open, because the right eye tries to take over. There are a few things you can do to help train one eye to take over. You can apply some tape to your shooting glasses, covering the non-dominant eye. Turning your head will also work, but may cause you to put yourself in an awkward shooting position. Basically it comes down to training. Keep working on it!

A. #2 Some good drills may be found at http:// Take a look!




Q. What are the advantages and disadvantages of using the Saf-T-Block as a trigger safety?

A. This is a VERY controversial subject among Glock owners. One school believes it is a good training aid for the new owner and the other school believes it is unneeded crutch. From time to time there have been some rather heated discussions relative to the use of the Saf-T-Block as a safety tool in Glock handguns.

Here is one man's opinion:

A. I think a Saf-T-Block has its place in the training cycle of a new Glock owner - BUT, I do not think it should be used as a permanent fixture in a carry gun. The STB is a very good training tool for a person who is handling a Glock for the tirst time and is trying to get acquainted with the operation and handling of the new gun. There is no doubt, however, that one could learn bad habits in the using a STB in their initial orientation, but if they are conscious of this fact as they learn to handle their new Glock I think the use of a STB is justified. This is particularly true when someone is learning to draw a loaded gun from a new holster - the LEO who elects to carry a loaded gun (a round in the chamber) in their duty holster, for example. IMHO, it's better to use a Saf-T-Block until you get the hang of things rather than shooting your thingy off because your finger found itself on the trigger while you were getting used to handling a new gun and/or drawing it from a new holster, or whatever.

I am always reluctant to take issue with those people who work in the gun training areas, but I am not sure that what a Newbie needs and what a seasoned firearms instructor things is two dissimilar things. I credit the STB with helping me a lot in breaking an old habit of placing my finger lightly on the trigger. I think this habit must have gone back to my training days on the rifle and pistol ranges with M-1's, Carbines and .45 autos when I was in Navy boot camp back in the late ‘40's.

When I became interested in handguns ... and in Glock in particular ... I realized right away that I had to develop the "habit" of placing my trigger finger alongside the slide (or barrel, as the case may be). The STB was very helpful to me in un-learning and relearning this part of gun safety with my new Glock autopistol. Mostly, I think, it gave me some sense of safety while I was learning a new routine. I am glad I had it and I am glaad I used it for the two weeks or so that I was unlearning an old habit and learning a newer, safer one.


<Note from Steve at FR&I - We do NOT endorse this product and feel that it is dangerous, especially for the novice.>



Q. Here's my question: Let's say you use the STB because you're hoping it will buy you some time if the BG snatches your gun (as some on this list have said). Are you assuming that the BG is going to get the gun from your holster or from your hand? If I ever used that little gadget (and I won't), and I was in a situation in which I needed to draw my gun, the first thing I would do when I drew my gun would be to pop out the STB.

A. Smart man! That is exactly my complaint with manual safeties also. When the gun is 'safe' (in the holster) the safety is on....when I take it out of the holster and make it 'unsafe', the first thing that I do is take OFF the safety. It never made sense to me.




Q. My wife's Glock exhibits terrible feeding problems when she shoots it, although I cannot make it mess up when I fire it. I figured she was just limp wristing it, but I have always heard that it was near impossible to limp-wrist a 9 mm Glock to cause misfeeds, especially in the G-17 and G-19.

A. First, limp-wristing is not uncommon in the 9mm Glocks for beginners. Folks not used to automatics, women or men, who have not learned the "proper grip" may experience the effects of limp-wristing which is usually mis-feeds or stovepiping. Ammo can also cause the problem. Try using S&B or Fiocchi or UMC 9mm 115 gr BALL ammo and see if the problem occurs. If it works for you and not her, try working on her grip.




Q. Where can I find IDPA and USPSA courses of fire?

A. Try




Q. Where can I find tips for range practices?

A. Go to




Q. I need to know more about the basic ingredients of range marksmanship and target sighting..

A. This info is available at:




Q. What web site contains dry firing exercises?

A. Go to http:/ and enter "dry fire" in the search space. Good information here.




Q. Is it true that dry firing is not damaging to a Glock?

Q. You will not hurt the pistol a bit. Reason is the spring cups are polymer and that is what strikes the rear of the breachface. Dry fire away!






Q. Where can I get info about the GSSF?

A. For an excellent source of GSSF info that may answer your questions check out's GSSF section at For even more info and a place to ask more questions check out the GSSF section of GlockTalk: Check there also for info containing directions, a map, and a list of hotels & food near the range.




Q. Can you apply for GSSF membership at the range?

A. Absolutely. Although they request that you pre-register 2 weeks prior to a match, you could fax your application/registration now and you would save $10 because pre-registration is $25, but registration at the match is $35.




Q. Do you need to be a GSSF member before participating in a GSSF match?

A. No, you may register at the match. You need to be there early, though!

Q. Also, what's the current fee for GSSF member ship and where can I get a membership registration form?

A. Annual dues are $20.00 per year. There is an application form available at

Q. I've tried calling GSSF direct, and all I get is an answering machine.

A. The GSSF is very understaffed to it's hard to get a real person to answer the phone. If you leave a message they will eventually call you back.




Q. How much ammo do I need to participate at a GSSF match?

A. Take no less than two hundred rounds and four mags with you. You will need three mags at most of the stages of the match so you don't have to stop and reload the mag after every string, and a fourth spare will come in handy sometimes. You will need at least two hundred rounds to finish all the stages, but more is better in case you have to re-shoot a stage for some reason and, also, so that you can shoot in some of the "fun shoots" they may have set up on the side. Have fun!






Q. Where can I find detailed information regarding the different models and their sizes, barrel lengths, etc.

A. Try the web page: and select from the menu listings on the left side of the Glockmeister home page. There you will find a listing and specifications of all Glock handguns.




Q. What are the definitions for supoorted and unsupported chambers?

A. A supported chamber means there is no case web visible when the round is seated in the chamber., ala the Tanfoglio, for example. Drop a round in a pulled Glock barrel and take a look at the 6 o'clock position; note that you can see an exposed portion of the case web. Some people are "iffy" over this as if there is a KaBoom! the case will rupture at this point and vent hot hases down the pistol grip, maybe damaging trigger components, blowing the mag out of the gun, or worse, touching off rounds in the mag and between the frame/slide gap. Take a look at the Beretta 92 and you'll notice the same lack of support. No big deal if you ask me.




Q. I was reading some info on the 357Sig cartridge that said Glock uses a fully supported chamber in their 357Sig pistols. Is that true and does it apply to all the Glock models?

A. No. No Glock, or any other handgun that uses the modified Browning action, has a fully supported chamber. Some chambers are more fully supported than others, however. The Glock 357Sig chamber is more fully supported than the Glock .40 S&W chamber. It's more fully supported than the G-19 chamber, and probably as well supported as the G-17 (I haven't seen one, so I don't know for sure). The Glock .45 ACP and .40 S&W have the least supported chambers of all the Glock models.




Q. I have noticed that among the various Glock models, the spring-loaded bearings are different colors. Is there any significance to this?

A. Yes, there is. Different colors for different calibers. Black for 9 mm, Grey for 10 mm and .45's. White for .40 S&W.




Q. Does Glock still make the G-24?

A. No, but you can make one yourself. Buy a G-35 (or a G-22) and a G-24 upper.

The G-24barrell will stick out less than 3/4 of an inch on the G-35 upper.






Q. What is peening, what causes it and what can be done to prevent it? Is it a manufacturing defect?

A. #1. It's normal wear in the Glock, caused by flexing in the polymer frame. The marks are usually done in the first 1000 rounds and then stop. It is caused from the frame flexing under recoil and the locking block coming up and hitting the slide. There is nothing you can do for it. It will go on for a while and then just stop. Sometimes the effects of peening cause a sharp edge to appear inside the slide area just above the locking block area. This area may sometimes have to be filed smooth with a file or stone.

A #2. IMO, to say that peening is caused by the frame flexing is kind of misleading. However, if the locking block is a tight fit in the frame as intended, the frame *has* to give a little. If it didn't, the locking block would never make contact with the slide at all. Just one man's opinion

A. #3 That's good reasoning, but let's not forget that the Non 9mm Glocks have a locking block pin that further reinforces it in the frame. It would seem to me that the frame has to flex in order for the locking block to hit the slide.

A. #4. Yeah, there is that alright. So.... I take a look at my G-19 and G-21:

With the G-19 I can take my handy punch and pry on the LB forcing it to rock back and it moves quite a bit. On the 21 (with the locking block pin) I try the same thing and the movement is there but barely perceptible. Mine has approx. 4-5000 rounds through it and there is a shiny spot on *one* side of the slide but I can't say any metal has been rearranged. So I guess you could say my 19 is peened and my 21 is trying to peen but can't. But the flex in the frame has to be from the locking block forward and it has to move down, away from the slide. I don't see where the force would come from that would make the frame bend *that* far. The force applied would be up, it seems to me, as the slide tries to flip up and the shooter tries to hold the frame down. Has there been any fast photography done that would show the frame flexing? Anyway, I'm electrical, not mechanical, so what do I know?

A. #5. When I first got into Glocks I read that this happened only in the big bores after so many hundred rounds. But, when I saw the peening on my glock 17 after only about 200 rds I panicked. But soon I forgot about it and accepted it. Never had a problem with it.




Q. How do I replace the tenifer finish? It is wearing out from holstering it.

A. The Tenifer is CLEAR and impregnated INTO the steel of the gun. The black on the slide and barrel is Parkerizing. The Tenifer is UNDER the parkerizing (and into the metal). If you removed ALL the parkerizing, the gun would still be protected by the Tenifer. Brownell's offers re-Parkerizing kits, BUT bear in mind that re-parkerizing is a huge, involved process and involves tanks and hoods and baths, etc. It is not the job for a novice. On the other hand, Glock will re-Parkerize your gun for a fee, about $50.00.



Q. How do I replace the Tenifer finish? It's showing signs of wear from holstering.

A. The Tenifer finish is CLEAR and impregnated INTO the steel of the gun. The black on the slide and barrel is parkerizing. The Tenifer is UNDER the parkerizing (and into the metal). If you removed ALL the parkerizing, the gun would still be protected by the Tenifer. Glock will re-Parkerize a gun upon request for a nominal fee.




For removal of lead in the barrel, Kleenbore makes an all brass version of the tornado brush that gets most of the lead out in a hurry. Follow this with a tight fitting rifle brush and you should have the barrel shiny within a couple of minutes. I have been doing this with my 1911 after shooting cast lead since May and cleaning the barrel is just about the fastest part of the clean up. Lead can be a good choice in practice ammo, but you will want to go through the effort of cleaning the barrel when you are done.




Q. What is your favorite lube for your Glocks?

A. #1 I have Tetra, Wilson Ultima, and TW25B (all grease) and cannot tell any real difference between the 3, but they do seem to be slicker than other lubes. I read about Tetra for a long time and really did not believe it, but when I needed a grease I picked up a tube and it actually did seem to make everything move smoother and few of my friends thought the same. Another benefit of the grease is that it does not migrate like oils do. As for CLP, I picked up a Colt manual at Knob Creek for carbines and they recommend Rifle Bore Cleaner and LSA or equivalent and their opinion combo's is "The use of combination cleaner/lubricants while more convenient to use, may require more frequent applications than when using LSA, and are recommended for use only under normal conditions. For maximum reliability of the weapon under heavy firing schedules or under adverse conditions, lubrication with LSA or equivalent is recommended." That being said I have almost 3 pints of mil-surplus CLP so I do use the stuff. One is in the original mil container and has on the side a warning that the mix has 111 trichloroethane in it which is a fairly potent degreaser, which seems an odd thing to mix with oil. Also, Break Free makes LP which they advertise for stainless and auto weapons to provide better lubing properties.

A. #2 A. I have used RemOil in the shop for some time now, and am very happy with it. The oil is a wet, Teflon lube that doesn't separate like breakfree. It is also lighter, and flows much better than any oil I've tried. Haven't seen this RemDry, must be new. I've used a couple of different dry lubes like it, and they work very well.

A. #3. My $.02 worth concerning oiling a Glock. I have found break free CLP to be OK, but not very good as a rust preventative. If you shoot a lot, that's no problem, but for storage, etc., I much prefer Tetra-gun or T-9 Boeshield. Incidentally, if nobody has ever mentioned it before (not likely!) and as I am fairly new to GSSF, I noticed the copper colored lube that comes from the factory with every Glock. I am going to assume that it is C-5, a commercially available copper based anti-seize compound that withstands high temperatures well. I don't know this to be true, but it makes sense to me, and I have lubed every "new" Glock I've had for several cleanings with C-5 on the rails, barrel contact points, etc. Since this discussion is about cleaners and lubricants, and I haven't seen it up for awhile, I'll post the following site. It's a formula for an inexpensive home brew that does an excellent job. Give it a try!






Q. Is there an after-market .40 caliber polygonal barrel for the Glock-20 with a tighter chamber? For me, the threat of a KaBOOM! with the Glock .40 barrel is the only downside. I believe with a tighter, better supported chamber, this issue would be for all intents and purposes, solved.

A. I have a Jarvis .40 S&W barrel for my G-20. The chamber has good support and it feeds with no problem.




Q, I have a buddy who recently traded in his G27 for a G35. He was under the impression that the G35 has a compensated barrel. It turns out that the gun he bought does not have a compensated barrel. Is the G35 normally equipped with a compensated barrel, or is he going to have to spring for the ported barrel?

A. #1. As you've heard from others, the G-35 does not come with a compensated barrel. I have been looking for a compensated/ported barrel for my G35 and these are the options I found:

1. Lone Wolf Distibutors had some ported Storm Lake barrels. They have four 30 degree ports through the cutout in the slide. Email:

2. Glockmeister has KKM threaded barrels with a compensator. Web site:

3. You could have your existing barrel ported by Magna-Port. Web site:

I went with the KKM barrel w/compensator. It's in the mail now but I can't shoot it until after Christmas. Just enough time to get in a practice session or two before GSSF Jacksonville!




Q. Will a 357Sig barrel fit as a drop-in on a G-27?

A. There is no problem putting a G-33 (357Sig) barrel in a G-27. Glock will sell a G33 barrel by itself for installation in a G-27, however, if you have a G-23 or a G-22, you have to send the gun to Glock in order for them to sell you a 357Sig barrel. Reason being, the older .40S&W frames will not handle the increased slide velocity of the 357Sig. Glock can verify that the gun will work by looking up the serial number, but they will not sell the barrel unless you send them the gun.




Q. Will Glock sell me a G-32 barrel for my G-23?

A. Glock will sell you a G-32 barrel for your G-23 if you have one of the newer G-23s. Glock will require that you send the gun to them so they can verify that it has the longer rails. You could also buy a G-32 barrel from Glockmeister, buy an aftermarket barrel or buy the whole G-32 gun.




Q. Is it possible to swap Glock .40 S&W and 357Sig barrels as it is in the Sig pistols?

A. Yes, although the factory doesn't like to sell you a 357Sig barrel if you have a G-22, G-23 or a G-27. My advice is to buy a G-31, G-32, or G-33 and get a .40 S&W barrel from Glockmeister or one of the other after market barrels. This is what I did with my G-32 and I shoot it with the G-23 barrel ~95% of the time.






Q. I'm trying to find a good a shoulder rig to carry my G-30 in for back-up.

A. The best, most comfortable, shoulder rig is the Galco Miami Classic. They re-released the original Jackass Leather shoulder holster too and they originally did it as a promo for $99. If you can find one of these in the stores, a better deal. If you can't find the Jackass, make sure that the Galco you buy is the Miami Classic and not the SSII (the wide straps). While the wider straps are a tad more comfortable, they SHOW if you wear your jacket unzipped/unbuttoned. Just above the nipples, the edge of the strap shows....I have a pretty wide chest and it shows on me! It truly defeats the purpose of concealment. Also, stay away from the optional tie downs...they are visible if you wear a short jacket as I do in the winter....I favor leather 'bomber' jackets. They also make it very strange to move .... if you move one side of your body and the other side pulls up.




Q. The SOB I decided to get from Galco isn't working too well. So, what would you guys recommend for a shoulder rig? Galco's looks nice but it doesn't look like I'll have a place to strap the magazine carrier end when I remove it. I have to remove the magazine carrier as the G-21 will be riding on my strong side hip. Any particular experiences and preferences?

A. You have several options. One, Galco makes a half-harness as well. In other words, no mag pouches, just elastic on that side. They also sell additional holsters, as an can replace the mag pouch with another holster....a G-21 under one arm and a G-30 under the other. Now, stick a G-21 mag in a jacket pocket (it'll fit both guns) and you're all set. And down the road, you can buy the mag pouch if you want to remove one of the holsters.




I recently acquired a couple of Galco leather holsters for my G-26 (for concealed carry). One was the Royal Guard IWB made for the G-26 and another was the Concealed Carry Paddle holster which was actually for the G-19 slightly longer) but fits the G-26. I've been having some difficulty because both fits very tight and I know that there has to be some breaking in that has to be done. Any ideas on how fellow listers break in leather holsters? The last couple of nights I have been holstering, drawing and re-holstering till the cows come home.

A. #1. Opinions can be as varied as the list members! My solution is to dampen holster, either with warm water or rubbing alcohol (dries faster), put the gun inside a plastic bag, insert it into the holster, and let it dry. It works for me! I like the Galco holsters and have a couple myself.

A. #2. Have you ever tried Leather Lightening? I believe its available from Mitch Rosen. I have used it in the past and it works very well. It is made for this purpose. Hope it works for you.

A. #3 . Try soaking it in alcohol instead of water. Then you can form the holster around the gun and not worry about rust. Most leather treatment including neatsfoot oil will soften the leather but will not help in making the leather more form fitting or tighter.

A. #4 The method that I have used that seems to work best is:

Run a sink full of warm, not hot, water. It needs to be just warm enough that you can comfortably hold your hand in it for 30-45 seconds but, not much longer than that. Add 2-3 drops of dishwashing liquid. The soap helps to lessen the surface tension of the water and helps it to penetrate the leather. Take the holster and dunk it in the water for 30-45 seconds using caution to prevent air entrapment. Take the holster out and shake the excess water off and IMMEDIATELY jam the gun in as hard as you can, the idea is to "bottom out" the gun in the holster. Since your doing this to a Glock no need to worry about rusting ! Let the gun set in the holster overnight or until the holster is completely dry, this usually takes 10-12 hours. If the fit is still a little tight try a little pure silicone spray on the inside.

A. #5. My answer to this is simpler: "Insert and remove the gun from the holster 500 times. All will be well then. And just think - an extra 500 reps of your draw! A true win-win situation! <Steve, F-R-I>




Q. I have been considering a concealed carry vest. I have been looking at the various options offered by "Concealed Carry Clothiers" (see Does anybody have any experience with this type of carry that may be able to point out some possible pitfalls before I make a purchase? I am mainly wanting it for IDPA matches (to cover the holster) and occasional concealed carry.

A. #1 I recommend you go to a gun show that has these clothes and try them on. I really like the looks of the Coronado leather vests, but when I tried them on they are "cut funny" and do not fit like an ordinary vest. There is a new style of Coronado that has the leather front and a canvas rear. I own one of these and it is cut like a "real" vest. I reallly like it. The Coronado vests are the holster. For IDPA, Smith and Alexander (S&A) make a vest that is extremely light weight polyester. These vests are great competition vests as they literally "fly" out of the way. I don't like the looks of them for normal wear, but they are EXTREMELY popular here in TEXAS at IDPA matches. When it is hot, and you must have concealment, they are probably the best, lightest vest around. The S&A vest is not the holster, just a lightweight vest. I have one and i like it.

A. #2. I purchased a CCC tropical vest this year and while it is lightweight and conceals the weapon/ammo well, it is very pricey (approx $75.00 delivered). I have owned several vests over the years and I think that the safari vest that you can get for $50.00 from is the best performing and most attractive features for the cost that you can buy.




Q. Will the Model G2 Fobus holster fit the G-19/23?

A. Yes, and it will also fit half dozen other models. The Fobus, Glockmeister, and other web sites have the info on each of the Fobus Holsters. Fobus says a Model G3 holster will be introduced about the first of the year 2000.




Q. Does anyone have any experience or knowledge of SIDEARMOR holsters, particularly their IWB for a G19?

A. #1 I've personally met with the people at Sidearmor and have examined their products firsthand. It is exceptional IMO. The molds are EDM'd to precisely fit the model Glock it is intended for and the holsters are completed with CNC mills. Fit is exceptional and appearance is better than some custom leather I have seen. They also use very heavy kydex for greater strength and allow the molds to cool completely before releasing them. See for more info.

A. #2 Sidearmor holsters approach a work of art. My G-30 rides in their IWB w/ 15 degree cant. It's secure, comfortable, very well made, fast, and easy to clean. I recommend them highly. You might want to wander over to for more input.




Q. Has anyone ever used one of these? Not looking for concealment, just comfort while at the range.

A. I have had and still do have several of the Bianchi Accumold products, from holsters to mag carriers and such. IMHO they make the BEST nylon product there is in the Accumold line. I have used many nylon holsters over the years and the Bianchi is by far the best. I have one of their little beeper cases (it's also listed in their catalog and on their website) that I have used to carry my pager in EVERYDAY for the last 3 years or so and it STILL looks like new to this day! I love it! If you are looking for relatively cheap, but high quality, holsters or nylon, I can't recommend Bianchi enough!




Q. What is your IWB choice again - Milt Sparks Summer Special, IIRC?

A. No, it's the Executive Companion. The Model EX, not SS.




Q. What about Hellweg plastic holsters?

A. #1 Hellweg makes a very nice Kydex holster with multiple adjustments available, and line with Rooskin so it's quiet and doesn't leave marks on your gun. It's the K-series Tactical-C. The Hellweg URL is: #2 Just to repeat for those who don't know: Hellweg makes a very nice Kydex Holster with multiple adjustments available, and lined with Rooskin so it's quiet and doesn't leave marks on your gun. It's the K-series Tactical-C.




Q. I need some opinions on a good, strong-side holster for the G-27. Preferably an IWB style.

A. #1 Milt Sparks Executive Companion. IWB and very well made.

A. #2 I like my PWL and I have a friend who likes his Galco, both IWB's. Any IWB takes some getting used to, and the holster has to break in a bit before you achieve the optimal compromise between grip and ease of draw.

A. #3 I know you may have been referring to leather, but Kydex doesn't require "breaking in". I think my Blade Tech is great for the G-26/G-27 and the "grip/ease of draw" compromise is easily adjusted with screws.

A. #4. I agree with you on the Milt Sparks product, but would suggest trying the MMX. I have both the Executive Companion and the MMX. I personally like the MMX better because it uses less leather, is thinner, seems to print less that the Executive Companion model.




Q. Please explain the Saran-wrap break-in for holsters.

A. I used it for the Glock plastic holster. You can use it on others of similar material.

You wrap your firearm with Saran Wrap (about 2-3 layers), then put the gun in the holster and leave it for several hours or overnight. Remove the gun and spray Armor All on the inside of the holster to slicken it up. After that dose of Armor all wore off (about 2 days), no more was needed and the gun went in and out of the holster with ease.






Well I called both IWI and MMC today to get some more info from them. As many of you already know, the IWI PT night sights are in fact fixed, and the MMCs are adjustable. Two separate companies, just in the same building, and one ( IWI ) also supplies the tritium inserts to the other ( MMC ). Here's what I found out - The IWI PT night sights are metal, and they are fixed. They are also available in a number of different colors and configurations. IWI warranties the inserts for 15 years, and a set for either a G23 or G27 is $85 plus shipping. The front sight is held in place with a screw from the inside, and the rear is a dove tail fit with a set screw. The MMCs are fully adjustable, and they are also metal, and available in almost all the same colors an configurations as the IWI PT night sights are. The rear sight is a drift adjustment for windage, held in place with a locking base and two jacking screws, and the height adjustment is made by means of a cam on the side with 22 clicks of elevation adjustment.

Cost for a set for either a G23 or G27 is about $150 plus shipping, and they have the same 15 year warranty on the inserts as the IWIs do, and a lifetime warranty on the sight itself. I had some concerns, as someone else mentioned, about having a set of adjustable rear sights on a carry gun, but the lady at MMC told me that she had been there for 10 years, and in that time she had only seen 1 or 2 sets of sights that had to be returned due to them losing their adjustment. Regardless, this is still something that concerns me enough that I have decided to go with the IWI PT night sights in box - bar - dot configuration instead (like the factory Glock rear " U " shaped sight picture).

My decision is NOT based on cost alone ( although it is kind of nice that they're a little more than half the price of the MMCs :), but more so on the fact of the possibility of the losing of the adjustment issue. If there was not a shadow of doubt that the MMCs could NOT lose their adjustment no matter what, and someone could provide me with another reason to spend the extra $$ for them, I would glady do so. Regardless, I have been around enough mechanical things in my life to know that eventually all mechanical devices CAN fail. That is not to say that the MMC sights will break, but just that if there is the possibility, that I do not want have to worry about it on a carry gun.




Q. Is there a way, short of buying or borrowing the Glock sight tool, to exchange rear sights between my G-35 and G-24 slides without damaging either? I have a limited number of hand tools.

A. Use a vice to hold the gun firmly in place. Put some padding between the jaws (thick cardboard is good for this) to prevent marring the finish. Then, using a brass dowel, or a stiff plastic rod and small, light hammer, gently tap the rear sight until it is out and, then, tap the new one in. As long as you are VERY careful and tap lightly with the hammer you lessen the chances of doing any damage. Best bet, though, is take the gun to a Gun Shop or to a Glock Armorer who has the proper tool, particulary if the sights are some of the expensive ones like Trijicons, Meprolights, et al.




Q. Night sights must be radioactive to emit light. Is it harmful to a person's sight or if it falls off and is picked up and placed in the mouth by a child? Also, do they come in other colors, ie: orange, red etc..? It must also be a restricted substance too?. How do they get around that?

A. "Tritium produces low-energy beta radiation that travels less than an inch through air and cannot pass through barriers such as paper or skin cells. Tritium does not pose an external radiation exposure threat to humans. Tritium enters the body the same way as water: through our mouth (by ingestion) through the air we breathe (by inhalation) through our skin (by absorption). When tritium is taken into the body, it dilutes evenly throughout all body fluids. A person eliminates through excretion or perspiration every 10 - 15 days one-half of any tritium in the body. If a person drank two liters a day of water with tritium at the EPA standard of 20,000 picoCuries (0.02 microCuries), the dose accumulated in one year would be 1 millirem. This is well below the average background radiation dose of 300 millirem per year received on Long Island." And, yes, Tritium sights are available in other colors. My night sights have a green front dot and a very dim red rear dots.




Q. I thought Trijicons were factory standard night sights for Glocks?

A. Both Meprolights and Trijicons are standard. You can specify or take what you get. MNS on your plastic box indicates Mepros and, voila, TNS indicates Trijicons




Q. I have been told by a certified Glock armorer in L.A. that he is installing new factory filled tritium night sights with 15-year warranty and these are neither Trijicons nor Meprolights.

A. Glock did acquire the Trilox company and since February 1999 doesn't provide Trijicons or Meprolights with their guns, but only their own night sights factory filled by Trilox. Evidently Glock got tired of the flood of Trijicons and Meprolights being returned for warranty repairs to the factory 6 months after purchase. The new Glock sights are closer to Mepros than the Trijicons in size.



Q. I am trying to setup the sights on my G-26 for concealed carry. I purchased a Trijicon front sight and I was about to buy my rear sight when I was told that it wouldn't work because the rear sight and the front sight would not be the same height. Now what?

A. Your G-26 came with a 6.5 mm rear sight. You can verify this by looking at the side of the rear sight. It will have a single horizontal bar stamped or "etched" into it. This is standard on the factory 9mm and .40 caliber guns. A taller (6.9 mm) rear sight would have a second, but shorter, bar stacked ABOVE this mark, while a lower, 6.1 mm, rear sight would have the shorter bar BELOW the longer one. Trijicon uses the same rear sight heights and marking scheme as Glock. Order one in the same height as your original and the point of aim/impact should be the same as with the Glock factory sights.





Q. Can anyone recommend spare parts I should keep on hand?

A. Assuming that you can detail strip your pistol, I recommend the following parts be kept on hand:




Q. Me again, the guy with his first Glock. I am looking at what I believe to be the ejector. Is it supposed to be bent inward, toward the centerline of the pistol?

A. Yes. You're fine. The same frame is used for both .45 caliber and 10 mm guns. The ejector needs to be bent on the 10 mm. Likewise, on the smaller framed guns, the 9 mm is bent and the .40 S&W is straight.




Q. If I get a 357 barrel for my G-23 or G-27 (a G32 barrel will fit both), will I encounter any long-term problems? I ask this because the rear rails and ejector are longer/beefier in the 357 Sig models than in the G-23 or G-27.

A. #1 The ‘old style' ejector is marked 4340 and is shorter. It was updated and now the .40s and .357s have a # 1882 which is somewhat longer. The ejectors in the 9 mm's are now the 336 and in the 10 mm and .45 either a #4340 or #1882. You might see a G-23 with either a $4340 or a #1882. According to Glock, the newer style was designed to work better with certain types of ammo and is not an ‘upgrade' per se. Basically, if yours works with what you shoot, don't fool with it!

A. #2. Actually, that's not quite correct. The 1882 WAS the ejector for the G-23. Then, Glock, in an effort to reduce the number of parts in inventory, switched the G-23 to the 4340 (the G-21 ejector). After many complaints from shooters getting hit in the head with brass, they switched back to the 1882. My original G-23 (Made in June 1990) had an 1882 in it.




Q. Explain the relationship of using various springs with the 3.5 connector.

A. There are three springs available from Glock - the stock coil spring, the NY1 and the NY2 springs.

The NY springs firm up the take-up (first) stage of the trigger pull, and they also add to the "break" trigger weight. The stock 5 pound connector with the stock spring is supposed to give a -pound break, with the take up being probably about 2 pounds. (Note: In practice, many triggers end up being heavier than the nominal figure). Connectors (3.5, 5, 8 pounds) are rated in terms of trigger pull weight with the stock coil spring.

The NY spring with the stock 5 pound connector nets a trigger pull with a break at about 8 pounds. The takeup is heavier than stock, too, maybe 3-4 pounds. In other words, it makes the whole of the trigger pull firmer.

If you were to combine the 3.5 pound connector with the stock spring, you would get (nominally) a 3.5 pound trigger (although, in real life it is often heavier). With the 3.5 pound connector and the NY1 spring, the takeup would be heavier, and the final letoff would be about 5-6 pounds nominally (it can be higher), much like the stock trigger. The NY2 trigger springs increase the trigger break weight even more, with about the same takeup weight as the NY1.

Caution: The 8 pound connector is NOT EVER to be used with the NY trigger.

For target shooting, lighter triggers are preferred because there is less tendency to jar or pull the sights off target when the trigger is pulled. For carry, light triggers are considered by some to be a liability, since they are easier to actuate by mistake. The truth is that if you only put your finger when you want to shoot, the actual pull weight is not going to give you any problems.






Q. I read that Glock would replace or refurbish old magazines. Has anyone had any experience with this practice?

A. It it is a spring, that's a do-it-yourself project. If the mag is broken (as in the body is split or cracked), that's a send-it-back to Glock deal.



Q. How long do magazine springs last? Can I keep my mags fully loaded?

A. Some PD's replace mag springs annually. Some say that $3.00 for the replacement of a mag spring is a cheap price to pay if your life depends on it functioning properly upon demand. At least annual replacement of all springs appears to be a good idea. Rotating mags and reloading them with new ammo about every six months seems to be the generally accepte way to go. As for keeping mags fully loaded, some keep their mags fully loaded all the time without a problem.



Q. What are the best replacement mags?

A. Steer away from metal mags, they chew up the factory mag catch. Other after market mags are good only for plinking. List subscribers have not had great reliability from them. The best mags for reliability are original Glock mags, and a lot of people upgrade the springs. See Glockmeisters web page for further details <>.




Q. Is there some secret to disassembling Glock magazines, in particular the G-33 mag? I've depressed the button on the floorplate but it still won't slide off. What am I not doing correctly?

A. #1. Find a hard surface with a good, aquare edge, like a table or bench top. Hold the mag in your hand, floorplate out and the rounded end up. Place only the edge of the floorplate on the edge of the table. Push in on the pin with a small punch or armorer's tool far enough to clear the hole in the floorplate. While pushing down and forward with your tool still inserted in the hole, force the floorplate to slide over the locking pips and off the bottom of the mag. Once you succeed the first time you won't have any further problems.




Q. I've been practicing tactical reloading and speed reloading. Is there a way for me to do something to the magazine to make it drop on the speed reload? I am assuming that since it is "drop-fre" it is supposed to stay up there till I help it along.

12/20 A. #1. Drop-free (FML) mags are supposed to drop when you press the mag release - even when empty.

That's what they mean by drop-free - although you could make a case for saying that is counter-intuitive.

The older (NFML) Non-Drop-Free mags will tend to want to say put.

A. #2. There is no such thing as a "drop free" or "non-drop free mag - only "full metal lined (FML) and "non-full metal lined" (NFML). Don't expect a FML mag to drop free or an NFML to not drop free. You will be disappointed.

A. #3. I called Glock a while back because some of my FML mags for the G-21 would not always "drop free" of the gun when the magazines were loaded. The response was that Glock never claimed that they were supposed to drop free. These mags would drop abnout 3/4" or so and stop. When they were fully unloaded they would drop free, however. The very newest magazine style that came with my G-21 had a long smooth rectangle on both sides of the magazine. This one will drop free if it has cartridges in it. I have found that the old NFML mags also drop free of the gun when they are fully unloaded on my G-17 and G-19 - without assistance from my non-shooting hand. I guess speed is slightly more critical when you have run the gun dry as opposed to dropping a mag with 1 round chambered.




Q. I have heard of people having problems with 357 mags with .40s, and .40 mags with 357s.

A. I called Glock and the tech said there is no difference in the mags except for the follower. He asked around when I told him that different people had been told different things and he came back on the phone and said they are the same. But it seems to me that if the followers were different,, there could be problems - especially if the follower pushes the nose of a .40 S&W round up slightly.




Q. I always have to change my grip on my G-19 and G-26 to release the Mags. Any recommendations?

A. On the small and intermediate Glock frames for the 9 mm, .40 S&W and 357 Sig the standard mag release is shorter than on the 10mm and the .45's. The wonderful thing is that you can get a mag release for a .45acp or 10mm and put it in your G-17, G-19, G-26 or G27 and have a beautiful extended mag release!




Q. I've had a problem with my Glock +2 baseplate and an older Glock 17 magazine. The original baseplate did not have the takedown hole. This +2 worked fine on my G-19 mags, but when I put the +2 on the G-17 mag. I counted out 19 Remington 115 gr +P JHP rounds and proceeded to load the magazine. Periodically the magazine would hang up and would have to be ‘fiddled with' to continue the loading. When I was [putting round 18 in this new ‘19' round magazine there was a loud SROING! and the internal parts and rounds flew out of the bottom of the mag.

A. #1 The problem is spring foldover. Directly from Grams ( order the Grams baseplates. Best in the industry, they work flawlessly. They're worth what you pay for them.

A. #2 I have had the new style Glock +2's fail rapidly. There is a seam that is created on the exterior of the pad. Stress caused three of mine to separate at that location. None unloaded the mag because inspection during cleaning caught the problem. Tap/rack/bang drills always ripped the old styles off my mags, thus the desire to go to the new style. I've given up using the +2's for carry. I use stock pads now. I do have two mags with Gram's pads on them and they work flawlessly for my wife's IPSC gun, but are not too hot for carry.

A. #3 The older Glock magazines are smaller at the base than the new ones. Putting a new style base on them causes things to be a little loose and, thus, what happened to you - baseplate popping off - is pretty common. One thing to remember is that the original +2 bases came with a longer magazine spring. Using them with a standard spring usually works when the springs are new, but when they get tired you'll see malfunctions.

A. #4. The older NFML mags are not intended for the +2 baseplates ... too much flex. (Glockmeister).






Q. What do you guys think of the Winchester Silvertips?

A .#1. Not a bad load especially from a G-27. A fellow lister rates it as sort of a "best buy" in .40 and he has done enough ammo testing to know. I had been using HydraShoks and Corbons prior to shifting to Silvertips.

I changed for three reasons.

1. Cost comparison (can buy a box of 50 "almost as cheap as 20 of HS or Corbon)

2. Muzzle Velocity / Muzzle Energy looked respectable (at least on chart)

3. I use two different combo's G-27/33 and G-32/23 and can quickly distinguish the "Silver Tip" from the Rem 357 Sig.

A. #2 Overall bullet performance in the Golden Saber seems to be better than with the Silver Tip. It expands more reliably through a variety of materials. It also holds together better than the Silver Tip.




Q. Quite a number on list recommend "Gold Dots."

A. The Gold Dot is also a good performer in the 40 S&W. Myself, I'd use it as a second choice and Golden Saber as my first choice.




Q. I would like to have some opinions for a good .40 bullet for my G-27.

A.#1 By "bullet" I assume you mean ammunition. Current carry load in .40 caliber for me, and a lot of other people on this list, is the Golden Saber in 165 gr. It seems to be the best compromise between expansion & penetration.

A.#2 Can I assume that you meant cartridges??? Or do you really want bullets to reload??? Obviously, our answers might differ, depending on your answer to that question. Also, practice ammo or defense ammo? I am going to assume that you meant cartridges and you want self-defense ammo. *If* that is the case, I would recommend Remington 165 gr Golden Saber.




A. I did some testing on various and sundry defensive loads in my G-23 and G-21 today. The results were eye-opening to say the least. The first number shown below is the average velocity in fps and the second number is the standard deviation. Air temperature was 65 degrees F., elevation ~5,000 feet, humidity was low - probably about 15 percent:


l65 gr. Hydra-Shok

155 gr. Hydra-Shok

 155 gr. Blazer Gold Dot









230 gr. Starfire

185 gr. +P Golden Saber






The 155 gr. Gold Dots really felt like they were loaded hot, which they are compared to the other two and to the Federal 155 gr. FMJ. Recoil was almost unmanageable (for me) in the G-23. I liked the 155 gr Hydra-Shok better. Both were accurate. I REALLY like the Golden Sabers in the G-21. Recoil was not noticeably greater than when shooting the Starfire. I like the idea of that big ol' .45 caliber bullet moving over 1100 fps; the high was 1170 and the low was 1121 fps. [October 1999].




Q. I've recently started shooting more often (a few times each week) and am now going through several hundred rounds each week. I'm looking for a good place to get factory and/or other reliable bulk ammo. I've come up with a few places, but the bulk cost per round is higher than what I can buy factory Winchester ammo for at Wal-Mart.

A. There are several ammo dealers listed in the last section of this document. If you buy your ammo in bulk, 1000 rounds or more, you will realize significant savings. Ammoman and Claflin include shipping charges in their quoted prices. For example: 1000 rounds of Federal American Eagle 115 gr FMJ from Ammoman is currently $134, inclulding shipping. This equates to $6.70 a 50 round box. Watch for sales and be ready for even better prices!




Q. How long does ammo keep?

A. Quality ammo kept in a cool, dry place could easily last 5 years or longer. Storage of ammuntions in areas of high temperature or high humidity should be avoided. Ammo left in areas of high temperature, such as the trunk or glove compartments of a closed vehicle, will cause deterioration of both the primer and the poweder charge. Ammunition stored in a cool, dry place has been known to last for many years, some dating back to the World War II era. For carry ammo, I'd rotate it every 6 months.




Q. Can I shoot lead thru my glock? I've heard it causes kaBooms!

A. Since Glock barrels are polygonal, more of the bullet surface contacts the barrel. Also, since the barrel is tenifered it is harder than conventional barrels. This causes the leading problem to be greater in the Glock than other gun barrels. Glock says, "NO LEAD"! But, if you insist on shooting lead, I give these recommendations:




Q. Based on what I have been reading, the 357 Sig really seems to be an effective round. Any comments?

A. As the 357 caliber becomes more popular, more ammo manufacturers are coming up with cheaper (price-wise) and more effective loads. I like the round, but it is still too expensive in my area (SE Idaho). If you buy in 1000 round lots the ammo gets to be more reasonably priced.




Q. What is the formula for computing foot pounds of energy at the muzzle?

A. Velocity x Velocity x bullet weight divided by 450436 equals energy in pound-feet

(Velocity is in feet per second, bullet weight is in grains)

Example: 180 gr bullet traveling in my 10 mm @ 1200 feet per second:

1200 x 1200 x 180 = 259,200,000, then

259,200,000 divided by 450436 = 575.4425 lbs-ft..






Q. Is this true? Brass fired from a Glock is virtually useless to reloaders because the chamber of a Glock is unsupported which causes the brass to bulge? Do most reloaders who reload any sort of volume only use a Dillon press?

A. #1. My Lee press hasn't had any problems reloading .40 or .45 brass fired from my Glocks. I don't over-use my brass, or hot-rod my loads, or reload with 180 gr. Bullets, so I don't worry about bulging brass.

A. #2 I have reloaded brass for my G-19 on my Dillon 550B for over a year now. Nary a problem. I don't use Dillon dies, I use RCBS with LEE crimp dies.

A. #3 I've reloaded tens of thousands of Glock-fired cases, many times over, with no ill effects. I'm also not one to avoid high pressure loads. To date, I've not had a problem with case failures. I use a LEE Loadmaster with all LEE dies, including the factory crimp die. I love every caliber, save the 357 auto, that Glock produces, and have had great success. Any of you newer people who are considering reloading for the Glock, don't be discouraged by someone telling you that you can't reload Glock brass. They are simply inexperienced, or they just don't know what they are talking about. Happy shooting! [Rocketman]




Q. Does anyone have any idea of what amount of shooting I would have to do to 'break even' with buying factory loads versus reloading?

A. If your are considering doing reloading to save money you won't be doing it for very long. Reloading is very boring unless you like to reload for reloading's sake. If you do decide to reload, save up and buy the best progressive press you can afford. The Square Deal B made by Dillon is about $250 and is a great piece of equipment with fantastic factory support. Dillon presses are very popular, but Lee, Lyman, RCBS, and others have comparable pricing.




Q. Since I bought my first handgun (G-17) I got bit by the bug real bad. I'm at the range at least twice a week and I am buying ammo by the case loads. Plus, I have since purchased a G-26 and a G-21. So, I am now dealing with 9 mm and .45 ACP ammo. I guess the natural progression is to start to learn how to reload before I break the bank buying ammo..

Any suggestions?

A. The best place to start is to buy a reputable reloading manual and learn about the whole process of reloading. I have reloading manuals from Lee Precision and Lyman - they both have excellent text on each process involved in reloading. Also, the NRA publishes a very good book covering the basics of reloading entitled: "NRA Guide to Reloading." You could also take advantage of the many sources of reloading information on the Internet. Run a search on reloading and what kind of equipment you'll need. A good page with scads of reloading data is This site will give you an idea as to what is involved in reloading and what kind of equipment you'll need. You may decide that reloading is too much of a hassle and/or it is too expensive to undertake. It's not unheard of. Some people who buy in large quantities report that they can buy reloads cheaper than they can make their own. With popular calibers like 9 mm Luger and .45 ACP, you may be one of these people.

If you decide to take the plunge, you'll need a progressive press. A progressive press will allow you to produce enough ammunition in the least amount of time for your particular needs; (i.e.: shooting lots of handgun ammo).

Some companies make handgun-only presses (e.g. Dillon's SDB). If you don't own any rifles, maybe one of these type presses is for you. But if there is any chance that you might reload rifle ammo buy a press that can do both handdguns and rifles. I was reloading only handgun calibers when I bought my Dillon 550B, but now I'm thankful that I don't have to buy another press to reload 5.56 NATO andf .30-06 Sprinfield ammo.

People will have different views on which brand of press to buy. Dillon, Lee, RCBS, Lyman and Hornady all make progressive presses - and they all have web sites so you can check out the goods on-line.




Q. Can someone list all the very basic components needed to set up for reloading?

A. Check out Lyman's 47th edition reloading manual, which also has an exposition on what is essential and what is merely optional. If you are using a progressive press and will be reloading for straight-walled handgun cartridges only:

You'll need the powder scale to calibrate your powder measure to drop the proper amount of powder. While some may say that calipers are unnecessary, some reloading manuals (e.g. Lee) supply reloading data with different minimum overall lengths ("OAL") for each powder and bullet combination. Thus, just dropping your loaded cartridge into your Glock's barrel is not enough in such situations - that tells you that you are within the maximum OAL for that cartridge, but you have to be sure that your cartridge is more than the minimum OAL for that powder/bullet combo. Calipers will help you measure OAL.




Q. Where can I find some basic information on Reloading Techniques?

A. Go to for three pages of good information.




Q. For those of us that do not reload now, but are considering it, I have a question regarding the LEE factory roll crimp, I believe it is called. Is this for cartridges only? Should it be used for pistol cartridge also? Does it reduce the life of the brass?

A. I do a fair amount of reloading for my G-29 and G-23, both with Lee factory crimp dies. I use a Dillon 550B with RCBS dies and the Lee crimp.

Regarding handgun reloading:

The Lee factory crimp dies are available for most popular handgun calibers. I find it nice to use on autoloader cartridges, but unnecessary for revolver cartridges. The factory crimp die will ensure that the final product will chamber in your handgun, assuming your handgun does not have an ultra-tight match chamber or such.

The Lee crimp die works by "re-sizing" the entire loaded cartridge with a carbide insert to minimum cartridge specs while crimping the bullet in the case. I would venture to guess that such a procedure would indeed work the brass to some extent, but on a practical level I do no believe that brass life would be significantly reduced by such a procedure over conventional crimping methods.

The "normal" crimping method irons out the flared portion of the case and folds the case mouth into the bullet cannelure (if one exists) to firmly anchor the bullet within the case. No provisions are made to re-size the entire cartridge.

Regarding rifle cartridge reloading, I do have a Lee crimp die for the .223 Remington, but I have not used it yet. Waiting to get my hands on a case gauge so I can make sure that the headspace on my reloads is within specs. As I understand it, however, the rifle Lee crimp dies do not resize the entire cartridge like the handgun dies; instead, they provide a very uniform crimp without buckling the case neck.

Try to decide ahead of time if you might wish to reload rifle calibers, too. Some presses you can do that on and some you annot. I seem to recall that some will allow pistol calibers *and* .223, but not the larger rifle calibers/cases. For example, the RCBS will only load .223 (and probably others in the came size range) in rifle calibers. So be sure to check, unless the cost of switching at a later date isn't a factor.




Q. Is it really worth it to reload 9 mm ammo?

A. It can be worth it. It depends on how many rounds a year you fire, the cost of a reloading press and support equipment you choose, and the cost of reloading components in your area. Currently I can reload 9mm 115 gr FMJ using 5.6grains of Vihtavuouri N340 for about $67 per thousand (not including the cost of brass (because I use mostly range pick ups)) which is about $53 less per thousand than the best deals I have found for loaded ammo. At this rate a Lee Pro 1000 progressive press (approx. $125), a set of Lee scales (approx.$30), and dial calipers (approx. $30) you will pay for the equipment in about 3500 rounds; that is, if you enjoy doing it - otherwise it will just collect dust and you won't realize any savings!.




Q. Does anyone have any experience reloading .40 S&W with Remington GS bullets? If so, do you crimp them any differently than you do normal JHP bullets? My concern is bullet setback, since only the 20-25% of the bullet on the base end is full .400 diameter.

A. Yes, I reload 165 gr version. Using 8.8 gr of IMR 800X. I keep my overall length at 1.130. I don't do anything special or different. This really is a great load! Incredibly accuracy from a G23 and G27, lots of power (and lots of flash), with case expansion equal to factory ammo. This load pretty much duplicates factory GS ammo in terms of velocity.






Q. Who do you think makes the "best" all around range bag that you have seen/used, considering cost, function, just the "right" size, etc. and why? Do they have a web site ?

A. There is no magic answer to this one! This is a hard one because it depends upon how much "stuff" a person lugs around. Each person is different and what one person carries in a range bag may be completely different from the next person. All the major stores and gun dealers carry a wide selection of bags. Each person has to decide for themselves what size is best for them and how many compartments and pockets are required. Best thing to do is lay out the stuff that you normally expect to carry to the range, measure its weight and volume, increase the dimensions by at least one-third and, then, go shopping!

A. #2. Look at the Dillon range bag at Also, look at Bagmaster at and Aces Cases at

I have a Dillon range bag and a Aces Mini-range bag. The mini bag holds 2 boxes of ammo + 10 magazines. It's great when I just want to run down to the range and shoot. The Dillon range bag has two pistol pouches and a large center area. I haven't seen the bagmaster bag, but it looks like the ace bag, but more expensive.




Q. I will be in Atlanta for a few days. Can someone give me the driving directions for the airport and from downtown Atlanta?

A.#1. From the airport: take I-75N to I-20W to I-285N. Take the "South Cobb Drive" exit off of I-185N. At the top of the ramp, go left (back across the Interstate). Go abut an eighth to a quarter of a mile to a traffic light, which is "North Highlands Parkway." Turn left. Glock, Inc. is about a half mile down the road on the right in the industrial park.

A.#2. From downtown Atlanta: Same directions as above apply, except you may need to go South on I-75 instead of North, depending upon where you are staying or starting from. Look at the area map the rental car people give out, or ask at the desk of your motel/hotel.




Q. Which is the best laser light for my glock?

A. My advice, avoid lasers!




Q. I'm going to ask Santa Claus for some new electronic ear muffs. Should I ask for Pro Ears or Peltor? Specifically I'm looking at the Peltor "Tactical 7" and the Pro-Ears "Pro Mag LE" or the "Stalker LE" Since I am interested in using these when hunting as well, I'm leaning towards the "Tactical 7" because of its sound amplification abilities.

A.#1 I have the Stalker LE's and have used them extensively both on the range and in the field. I believe they are generally excellent, but they have 2 drawbacks which may or may not impact your intended use. The first drawback is their suppression is ‘only' 20 db and 20 db is not sufficient for all range work, though I've found it to be sufficient for everything I normally do. If I plan on using my 300 Win I add soft earplus inside of the Stalkers before I shoot. When firing my G-23, G-27, and 30-06, they are okay without plugs. The second drawback concerns the audio response of the pair I have. It is a little on the high side of the curve. They are utterly fantastic for hearing a branch break in the woods, and are excellent for most human voices, but I'd rate them as only ‘good' for footfall, ‘thud' or other low frequency events. In all other respects I have found them to be excellent. Keep in mind that my experiences are very subjective.

A.#2 Pro-Ears are the only thing I would buy. I love mine. I have swapped for a few minutes with folks who have the Peltor and in a couple of weeks they are back at the range with new Pro-Ears LE. I also recommend getting a couple of packages of foam ear plugs. In an indoor range next to a shooter with a .44 mag you will need both the foam plugs AND the ear muff protection!

A. #3 I have been following the thread on Ear Protection and thought I'd add a dealer's perspective. We offer both the Peltor and the Pro-Ears. When we started carrying the Peltors they were the best on the market. Then, Pro-Ears arrived with their Dynamic Sound Compression. The "Linear Elite" model is based on digital sound compression, which means that when the impact noise reaches 72 db it instantaneously compress the impact noice below 50 percent of hearing, thereby allowing conversation to pass. The Peltors are based on analog technology which means that when the impact noise reaches 82 db it will shut off the speakers within 6 ms. Normal voice will not pass during the shutdown sequence. Another difference was the warranty. Aeror will warrant the product 3 months or 1 year depending on who you speak to, while the Pro-Ears have a 5 year warranty on the electronics, speaker and microphone. Pro-Ears are lighter, more comfortable, and balanced. Battery life for the Peltors is a maximum of 200 hours while the Pro-Ears have a life of a minimum of 250 hours. The Pro-Ears cost more, but then again you are getting a lot for your buck.

A. #4. I have a set of Pro-Ears LE (sporting clays model). I've never tried the Peltor units. The Pro-Ears seem to work well. As for their claim that you can hear normal speech simultaneously with firearm discharges (i.e., it amplifies soft sounds while attenuating loaud sounds) my unit fails to perform At a recent training class, I was unable to hear a normal conversation between two persons standing next to me while the line was firing away. Maybe a trip back to the factory is in order. Also, the sporting clays model (NRR 20) doesn't work that well in indoor ranges. I find that i must resort to using plugs with the muffs while indoors.

A. #5. I've tried both Peltors and Pro-Ears. The Peltors eat batteries by the week and I felt them to be too heavy. The Peltors also cut out completely when shooting is happening, and that makes it very difficult to carry on a conversation. The Pro-Ears are lighter and more comfortable, and the batteries last for months. However, the Peltors take a common 9v battery and the Pro-Ears take N size batteries, which are less common, but are available from any Radio Shack store. The Pro-Ears only filter out the shot sounds, and don't cut out completely. The only thing about them I don't like is the headband is plastic and tends to loosen its pressure with use; however, I use ‘em every day and this might not be a problem if they are used on weekends only.




Q. What is the best gun safe?

A. #1 A lot of people like Gun Vault, but I use the R&D Enterprises Handgun box instead. Cost is about the same and you're getting a lot more safe for your money, IMHO. Remember, also, that an electronic lock can fail, but a simplex lock doesn't have any batteries to fail you in the worst of times.

A. #2 The Gun Vault also has a key backup. They recommend that you change the batteries once a year, but with EVERY DAY USE and being opened at least 3-4 times a day, I have yet to drain the batteries on mine within that time frame. All in all a great product. See for yourself at




Q. I am looking for a gun that is fun to shoot, cheap to shoot and good for plinking and fiddling around.

A. Get a .22LR. Either a Ruger or a Browning ‘Buckmark'. These guns are loads of fun to shoot, cheap to shoot, very accurate, great for plinking, and chances are you can take one and out shoot most of the folks at any range. Good training for other handguns, IMHO.




Q. Which is the best laser light for my glock?

A. My advice, avoid lasers!





The web sites listed below are by no means a listing of all the sites related to Glocks and other handguns. It is merely a sampling to get a new person started in the search for information that most all gun owners seek on the Internet at one time or another. It will be soon become apparent that by logging on to one site you will find it will often lead to other sites of similar or related information, topics or products. (Gun Owners of America) (National Rifle Association) (State Statutes and Gun Laws) (shooting) (Shooter Info)




(Listed in no particular order) (Internet Firearms Directory) (GREAT Search Site!) ("GLOCK" Service, Parts, Accessories, Barrels, repairs, lots of FREE GLOCK INFO) (magazine base plates, etc.) (gun repair videos) (gun holsters) (shooters supplies) (reloading equipment) (Shooter supplies, nicest catalog! ....‘The Wishbook' for shooters, gunsmiths, et al) (barrels) (shooters supplies) (ammo) (ammo) (mail order) (mail order) (Wolff gun springs) (reload supplies) (ammo) (Ed's Red Bore Cleaner - Home Mix Really Works!) K (ammo) (barrels) (shooters supplies) (training timers) (reloading equipment, accessories) (Hogue handgun grips) (reloading equipt, accessories) (gun, shooting, defense books) (holsters) (holsters) (range bags) (concealment clothing) (holsters (barrels) (chronographs)



Compiled and edited by: "Red" Gambrell, Olney, MD

First release: 23 December 1999